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HANSON'S LANDING,
210 Salt Pond Rd., Wakefield, (401) 782-0210.One of the most common uses of those huge, painfully expensive to run powerboats is to stay at the dock and drink and eat on the transom at back, enjoying the salt air while the passing peasants gawk. Admiring the view of Wakefield's Salt Pond Marina, it occurred to me that I was doing even better while gazing through the windows at Hanson's Landing restaurant and-reaching for more calamari. The breeze through the screen was even strained of mosquitoes. All that was missing was the pretentiousness, and for that I could always lift a pinky. The place is popular enough to not take reservations during the summer, even-during the week, when we arrived with Left Coast émigrés eager for seafood the way they remembered it. For our estimated 30-minute hiatus, the hostess suggested that we wait on the downstairs open deck, where drinks and burgers and appetizers are served daily, from noon to 4 p.m. and during the restaurant's evening hours. Full review.
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